Master Class with Chef Andre Soltner
Robin Monday, May 24, 2010 at 3:56PM 
One of the perks from winning the Pepperidge Farm 1, 2, 3 Puff! Contest was a cooking class in New York City. I was given my option of classes – pizza making, how to make chocolate truffles, etc. When I discovered that I could take a rare class taught by André Soltner if I shifted my travel dates by one week I jumped at the chance.
I have a deep and abiding love for French cuisine in all its forms. From the freshness and piquancy of Provence to the hearty, comforting dishes of Normandy, I love it all. Soltner hails from the Alsatian region of France, near the German border. It is heavily influenced by Bavarian traditions, but maintains a certain je ne sais quoi, if you will, that is unique to France and France alone. Alsace produces some of the best Rieslings in the world, alongside its unique approach to food. How better to develop my knowledge of French food than from a master of Alsatian cuisine?
André Soltner is a paragon of the culinary world. He owned and operated Lutèce in New York City for many years until retiring in the ‘90s. Well known for its Tarte à l'Oignon d'Alsace, Lutèce boasted patrons of many ilks – from Richard Nixon to Katharine Hepburn to John Lennon. Soltner brought his expertise to the French Culinary Institute in 1995 and has since taught hands-on cooking demonstrations and counseled students. His many awards include, among the countless French titles I can’t pronounce, a James Beard Lifetime Achievement Award. He was well respected in the “foodie” community before foodie was ever a word – and he still will be long after that tiresome cliché dies the death it so rightfully deserves.
He is also, unmistakably, a very funny man. As my sister and I were departing after the class he hooked an arm around each of us and with a stern face and a sparkle in his eye quipped, “Ladies, say hello to your husbands for me.” It was easily one of the funniest moments I have ever experienced.
He is a charming, charismatic, brilliant man who truly believes in food. He doesn’t cook to shill his new line of cookware or to boast of his awards and commendations. He cooks because he loves it – and that passion shines through with each slice of his knife, wink of his eye, and his mirthful jokes about the many years he’s spent in the industry. To compare Chef Soltner to the hacks and sell-outs currently enjoying their celebrity on cable television would be like comparing fine Cotswold English cheddar to Velveeta.
The class focused on the preparation of three courses, Soltner’s famous Tarte à l'Oignon d'Alsace (Alsatian Onion Tart), Quenelles de Brochet Sauce Americaine (Dumplings of Pike in Lobster Sauce), and Oeufs à la Neige Crème Anglaise (Floating Islands with Crème Anglaise).
Chef Soltner demonstrated the preparation of his onion tart, followed by the pike dumplings and lobster sauce. We (the students) broke off into groups to prepare our own lobster sauce after watching Chef Soltner demonstrate that as well. I killed a lobster for the first time, an experience not nearly as traumatic as I thought it would be, and through the constant hovering and ministrations of the too-many cooks in the kitchen my sister and I were able to create a respectable Sauce Americaine.
Prior to us making the sauce ourselves Chef Soltner demonstrated his methods in the front of the class. As he was pouring the requisite white wine into the pot he declared, quite succinctly, that all chefs were alcoholics. He added the caveat that he is unaware if that is still the case in present restaurants (speaking from personal experience, yes), but that in his heyday in the kitchen all chefs were drunks. The chefs with whom he worked were so scandalous, he said, that the head chefs always kept a watchful eye whenever the booze was about.
One chef he worked under would actually watch from across the room while the wine/cognac/etc. was poured into the pot or pan to ensure that it made it to its proper destination. Chef Soltner revealed that he, and many of his colleagues, would routinely place a small bowl directly into the pan with which they were working, wait for the head chef’s eyes to turn to their way, and then pour the alcohol into the dish. As soon as the chef looked away they’d pluck out the bowl, and down the hatch it went.
He was kind enough to demonstrate this technique for us should the want ever arise for us personally (though he did not actually imbibe). Nearly the entire class was in stitches throughout the demonstration.
He showed his techniques for making pike dumplings next, and though they were delicious I wager that I will never feel the need to make poached fish balls ever again in my life. The lobster sauce they were served in, though, was divine. Following the dumpling demonstration, Chef Soltner prepared a crème anglaise on which the floating islands would rest.
One of the many sous chefs in the kitchen took the time to show my sister how to pipe the islands before poaching them and after a few missteps she was doing well. So well, in fact, that she was showing Alan Richman how to pipe them a few moments later.
Richman’s attendance was a pleasant surprise. He’s the Dean of Food Journalism at the French Culinary Institute, yet this was apparently his first cooking class there. He is one of my favorite critics, food journalists, and writers – so I admit my stomach was all a-flutter at the thought of meeting him in person.
I felt like I was meeting the Brad Pitt of the food writing world.
He was a charming man and I feel inspired to continue chasing my dream of food writing just for having met him.
By the end of the evening (and after a couple glasses of wine) the whole class was quite relaxed. I sat next to Chef Soltner at the head of the table to feast on our creations and discuss the state of food in our society at present. Richman, my sister and I, and a rather overwhelming but nice man from New Jersey named Jocko bantered over who qualified as the first “celebrity chef” (Puck, Prudhomme, Emeril?) and whether or not they were ruining food for the nation (probably not).
It was an amazing evening, an unforgettable experience. Chef Soltner’s gentle admonishments regarding my quenelle-making abilities and his revelation that real chefs use bouillon, Richman’s advice on restaurants and up-and-comers, and the exhilaration of rubbing elbows in the kitchen with two of my idols.
Bliss.
Reader Comments (5)
What a wonderful experience for you, I am so glad you had this opportunity and I wish with all my heart that your dreams come true my child.
Such an amazing experience - love the picures. Love the happiness in them. Congratulations on your terrific success in the contest!
FUN. We talk about quenelles a lot, because that's the traditional use for pike--of which we have many, you may recall--but we always punk out in the end and just bake the pike. Quenelles look like a pain in the ass to make. Apparently, you agree.
It was so fun to hear about your trip. It sounds absolutely fantastic and couldn't happen to a nicer chef. I am inspired by your cooking yet do nothing as I am, sadly, very lazy in the kitchen.
Wonderful pics.. i think you enjoyed very much and nice experience you have....